Chantilly is too often known only for its incomparable castle, the castle's magnificent library and art collection. I had visited all of that previously, so this time we devoted a late afternoon and early evening to wandering the streets, following the canal and river, and checking out the impressive race track for horses. All of this was done after the castle grounds were closed and the bus loads of tourists wearily departed for the evening. The sole main street (leading to the castle) became still. Restaurants slowly awakened, frequented that evening primarily with locals, and meandering became a restful pleasure.