Showing posts with label Market. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Market. Show all posts

Saturday, January 26, 2013

Vancouver's Winter Market (Nat Bailey Stadium)

We recently began supporting Vancouver's Farmers' Winter Market which is open Saturdays, 10:00-2:00 during professional baseball's off-season.  This particular Saturday was a bit wet but the rain held off for us.  Some of the produce was excellent, as were local cheeses, fish, meats from the Fraser Valley, breads, and there were lots of well-behaved dogs getting their morning strolls. 












Saturday, November 6, 2010

Marché, Market Day in Toulouse

The citizens of France have so much to teach North Americans about food, the joy of eating excellent food, devoting a high percentage of your income to quality food, spending hours over a leisurely meal while savouring food and conversation, the excellence of simplicity when using the best ingredients . . . .

I would imagine that if we could return to most French cities 300 years from now, we would find open air markets still operating on the same mornings throughout the week as they did centuries ago.  This is a European tradition which grew as town life increasingly detracted city dwellers from planting their own vegetables and raising their own meat.  Strict rules and regulations govern the precise locations and times when each market operates, and the city prepares the space and cleans up afterward.

Almost magically, vendors descend with their trucks laden with tables, aprons for the tables, scales, cash registers, signs with prices, transparent plastic bags for the more delicate perishables, and box upon box of fresh items purchased from importers and distribution centers just hours earlier.  Tents are sometimes erected and everything happens quickly.  Some markets are operating by 7:00 a.m. and nearly all are packed up and gone by 1:00 p.m.  At most, an open air market would be open three days a week at a given location, but sometimes only twice or even once if drawing customers primarily from the countryside and other smaller villages.

I really enjoy these marchés.  Having insufficient courage, I tend to stroll around with my camera held waist high, shooting without really knowing what I am getting.  This seems to disturb customers and vendors far less than when I hold my SLR to my eye, frame and shoot.

On this chilly Saturday in mid May, I was really intending to visit the cathedral, but on the way I paused to see this flower vendor setting up under tents on a narrow triangular corner which featured Toulouse's version of the flatiron building.  The road sign points the way to the Place Victor Hugo, which has the largest market in this capital city.  However, I went instead to a smaller market which was obviously servicing the local neighbourhood.
 

I first noticed people carrying the sort of bags one gets at these markets, so I walked over to see where the action was.  It was about 11:30 a.m. when things were in full swing and folks were shopping quickly before vendors started to think about finishing.
 

Tables were laden with fruits, winter root vegetables and a few tables (shown later) featured the season's very first gariguettes, the first strawberries available from French farmers.  In my opinion, they are also the best, by far.


People don't just shop, they also pause for conversation, laughter and stories.  Customers obviously frequent the same vendors week after week and develop friendships.
 



I wish I knew the source of these tomatoes, possibly Morocco, Algeria, Spain, hothouses in Provence?
 

The oranges looked superb, possibly because of the bright spring light, but they were also plump and juicy.
 

 



This vendor is testing the relative ripeness of the avocados for her customers.





These men talked for some time, clearly enjoying themselves.




White asparagus was just starting to appear, a delicacy created by continually mounding the soil to keep light away from the stalks, making them unbelievably tender.  To the left we see the Gariguettes, my favourite strawberries, period. Each region has its own traditions.  In Toulouse, vendors supply customers brightly coloured round plastic baskets they can use when selecting their own produce.  It is assumed that you bring your own bags.  There is certainly no room for North America's large four-wheel grocery carts!
 


Some vendors have trucks/trailers which can open, becoming refrigerated cases for meat or cheeses.  Sausages hang from the metal ceilings.  Meat throughout France is excellent, their standards are very high.
 

Baked desserts are also available.  A large ring of coffee cake can be sold in portions, as much as you wish for the evening's meal. 
 

This vendor's truck offers a wide variety of French cheeses, nearly all of which are more or less local to that particular district.  To find cheese from other countries, you have to go to specialty import shops.  But these people know their cheeses, sometimes asking when you will be eating it--today, or tomorrow.  It makes a difference.

Eggs are generally not refrigerated.  They sell quickly and are fresh to begin with, unlike eggs available in our North American supermarkets (which are 'super' only in quantity and price but almost never in true quality).
 


Every neighbourhood must, by law, have a bakery open within reasonable walking distance every day of the week.  Even so, some specialty bakers make a business of selling more unusual traditional and non-traditional breads either made in special ways or having whole grains.  Local bakeries are increasingly moving in this direction as well.  The traditional white-flour baguette is still available everywhere, but most shelf space in bakeries is now devoted to other breads which are becoming very popular with the health-conscious French .


I also like to look behind the scenes in some open air markets, seeing how much produce has been brought, how well things are selling (which cases are empty).  People continually clean up as the brisk sales continue.  At the close of each market, large motorized street cleaners go through and wash down the sidewalks and streets, all cartons are tossed into large garbage trucks, and once the sidewalks dry, you would never know anybody had been selling anything there.



 
 

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Carcassonne's Market in mid May

On Saturday, May 15th (our final full day in Carcassonne) the main market was in full swing.  By the time we stumbled upon it, most people had completed their shopping and were leisurely talking with friends, sipping yet another espresso, or tucking into lunch.  The clothing they were wearing reveals that the weather was unusually chilly and breezy, in spite of being that far south in mid May.

I begin with a display of my favourite Aude dish, cassoulet, that wonderful combination of white beans, duck and spices.  These jars were made by Le Ferme, one of the finest food outlets in Carcassonne, a specialty store gourmets seek out.


And this brings me to my absolute favourite meat in the south of France, canard (duck).  Here we see duck legs which have been slowly and lovingly cooked for hours in pure duck fat.  The fat keeps the dark meat unbelievably moist and tender.  Duck fat is, as far as my reading indicates, more healthy than almost any oil for cooking, partly because it melts at such a low temperature and heat does not change the molecular carbon chain.  The French discovered centuries ago that it also seals out air and preserves unexposed duck for months without refrigeration.  Most importantly, the taste is superb.  Duck legs are a bit difficult to find in North America, but our local store in Vancouver now sells them regularly.  Nevertheless, I resolutely I get my organic ducks privately from Walter and Tony out in Chilliwack.  Here, as in Carcassonne, duck is not cheap . . . but it is truly a delicacy.  


If you prefer to avoid all the cooking while in Carcassonne, you can purchase cassoulet already fully baked in earthen casseroles.  Just reheat and you will have a truly hearty meal--all the protein you could possibly require for the next few hours.  You can see the ends of the duck legs protruding from the beans. 


The next several pictures, like the one above, were taken in Les Halles in Carcassonne, which I believe used to be where grain was sold, a majestic open market structure constructed in the 1700s and refurbished in recent years.  This type of market contains many individual "stalls", compact areas having display cases with refrigeration or shelves for ice to keep fish properly cooled.



While Les Halles would be open daily, the open market stalls in the square were set up only weekly.  I enjoyed observing the individual merchants and farmers lovingly look after their displays, wait on customers, many of whom were obviously recognized by sight and even by name.  The produce was local, for the most part, the vegetables were deep green and looking very fresh and healthy.  Other tables offered jars of things preserved or honey.



And while you wait for business, keep warm with the ever-present scarf,wool sweater and coffee.



Markets are family affairs, with children often joining parents on the Saturday morning outings.




Some farmers sold plants ready to be planted that weekend, provided the moon was in its correct phase.




Other people sold hard goods such as CDs, DVDs, clothing, shoes, underclothing (especially for women), toys, or handicrafts.  This young lady offered a wide variety of vegetables.






Hard as it may seem, it is possible to be bored at this bustling market, although it likely beats going to school.

 

Once shopping is concluded, the cafés are crowded, particularly the outside tables if the weather permits.  One quickly gets the impression that the French love sunshine and will take any opportunity to bask in it while enjoying conversation and an espresso.



Finally, one trudges home, often going down a narrow street with sidewalks even more narrow, stepping aside to let cars pass.  'No parking' zones seemed to be ignored during market hours, and this surely let more people drive in from the countryside to take advantage of the market's prime offerings.